Tag: india

The magic of Buddhavanam

It is night, and as I sit in the verandah, I hear the buzz of crickets. Silence envelops the Haritha Vijay Vihar resort like a majestic shroud. Twenty feet away, the vast expanse of the Nagarjuna Sagar lake begins. Swapna is insde the room working on her laptop, while I try to get down to serious writing. Let me start with the events of today.

I wake up at 8 for a walk. The cool breeze, tall trees and leaf-lined roads provide the perfect excuse to step out for a date with nature and restart my exercise routine.

Kishore, the auto-rickshaw driver we appointed to ferry us around, is on time. He was planning to come earlier, but I ask him to defer the day’s sightseeing by a couple of hours, as I had to complete some tasks. His enthusiasm and keenness to show us around Nagarjuna Sagar is refreshing.

Once we get inside the autorickshaw, Kishore drives us to see Buddhavanam, a Buddhist Heritage Park in a place called Sunkishala. Buddhavanam consists of a Maha Stupa, 42 metres in diameter, at the centre, with other architectural tributes to Buddhism around the main dome. The middle dome has two floors, with the upper floor housing a meditation room, whose tranquility is like a balm for stressed city dwellers. The intricately carved walls depict the Jataka Tales and other significant events of the Buddha’s life. 

Overwhelmed by the sheer size of Buddhavanam, Swapna and I decide to explore one more spot in detail, the Stupa Vanam. The Stupa Vanam consists of replicas of stupas from different parts of India and the world. In the India section, we see replicas of the Sanchi Stupa, the stupa at Sarnath, the one at Amaravati, and the stupa in Samath. Having walked for several hundreds of metres, we dread walking further. However, our shared love for history makes us forget our fatigue and continue with exploring. 

Adjacent to the Indian stupa replicas lie their counterparts from Pakistan, Afghanistan, Nepal, Tibet, Mayanmar, Cambodia, South Korea and Sri Lanka. The difference in architectural style of each stupa is apparent, helping us see how Buddhism and the local cultures interacted, fed off each other and produced a syncretic result. While the Pakistani and Afghani stupas showed the influence of Islamic architecture, those from Nepal & Tibet and Cambodia & South Korea had South Asina and Southeast Asian features. 

The Buddhavanam is a microcosm of Buddhist architecture and culture from different parts of the world. It helps you to compare the architectural styles of Buddhist structures, as they vary from state to state and country to country. The vast exhibit proves how popular and firmly entrenched Buddhism was in India for close to a millenium. It also showcases the spread of Buddhism outside India, made possible by rulers like Ashoka, Kanishka, and others. 

ADIEU, KARWAR

Today was the last day of our Karwar visit and our only chance to visit the Rock Garden & Warship Museum. As our bus was in the evening, we used the morning to explore these two places. 

Located on the Rabindranath Tagore Beach, the Rock Garden showcases the lives of Karnataka’s people. From Haliyal in the north to Bhatkal in the South, every tribe finds a worthwhile mention.

When you enter, a mural sculpted like a fisherman’s family celebrating a catch welcomes you. Further inside, you see sculptures of people farming, fishing, and animal rearing. They are so intricate and life-like that you feel they are talking to you, inviting you to be a part of their lives. Stone plaques with details provide a deeper understanding for the curious visitor.

The Warship Museum, located next to the Rock Garden, showcases the historic INS Chapal. Dummy guns and rocket launchers on the outside highlight the Navy’s firepower. The interiors, on the other hand, stand out for their rich detail. As you enter, mannequins dressed as the Captain, Sailors, and Doctors greet you. A TV room, a strategy room, a medical unit, and others recreate their lives, a blend of hardship, adventure, and fun. 

Once done with the sightseeing, we headed back to the resort. On the way, we bought Apples and Oranges for our trip home.

We boarded the bus back to Bangalore at 6. Reflecting on our stay, we felt grateful to have experienced a slice of Karwar’s rich history, culture, and natural beauty. With its pristine beaches and lush forests, Karwar is the perfect destination for travellers looking to unwind.

While researching before our visit, I remember stumbling upon some interesting information: Rabindranath Tagore describing Karwar as the ‘Kashmir of South India”. This description puzzled me then, but not anymore…..

DAY 3 AT KARWAR

We woke up late, feeling refreshed after the exhausting trip to Goa the previous day. We were hungry but wanted to find a cheaper option for food. Luckily, we discovered an Udupi restaurant next door and headed there for breakfast.

The dosas at the Udupi restaurant were crisp and golden brown. The cook had roasted them to achieve the perfect taste and colour without overusing oil, a testament to his skill and experience. Swapna and I relished the meal and ended it by sharing a plate of Kesari Bath.

After the meal, we returned to our room and decided to spend the morning at Tagore Beach, around five kilometres from Sterling. We had heard of the beach’s magnificent sunrise and were keen to witness it in person. Luckily, we found an autorickshaw driver.

Unfortunately, by the time we reached Tagore Beach, the blazing hot sun was out in full force, dashing our chances of a pleasant view. We ate quickly at a restaurant nearby and returned to the resort for a siesta. 

In the evening, we returned to Tagore Beach. This time, we were lucky. The quiet sunset, the sea, the clouds, and the cool breeze did wonders for our mood, uplifting our sagging spirits. We captured photographs of the setting sun in the background. We collected shells embedded within the sand, appearing whenever the water receded. 

After two hours at Tagore Beach, we returned to the resort. At the resort, we joined other tourists in watching a documentary on the US Navy. The film highlighted the massive sea, air, and stealth power of the United States, giving the audience an insider’s view of warships, aircraft carriers, destroyers, and reconnaissance submarines. 

Having spent most of the day outside, we returned to our rooms and went to bed, eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited us the next day.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF KARWAR

After our whirlwind marriage in Hyderabad, Swapna and I were brimming with excitement for our upcoming honeymoon in Karwar. We were eagerly looking forward to the trip, hoping it would provide a much-needed respite after the hectic weeks leading up to our wedding.

As planned, we took a bus to Karwar on Tuesday, October 8. After a bumpy ride, we disembarked at the Karwar municipality the following day. We hired an autorickshaw and landed at Sterling. The staff applied tilak on our foreheads to welcome us. They knew we were newly married. 

The room was cosy, just perfect for the two of us. After a refreshing shower, we were eager to explore the local cuisine. I had heard so much about Karwar’s delectable fish dishes, and I was excited to try them. When I saw Pomphret on the menu, I knew I had to have it. The fish, marinated with chilli, salt & spices and shallow-fried, was a burst of flavour. With each bite, I could feel my fatigue melting away, replaced by a sense of rejuvenation. 

After lunch and a quick nap, we walked down to the reception. Nisha, a part of the support staff, invited us to a Karaoke event at the bar. Since Swapna and I were free that evening, we accepted the invite. 

Upon entering the bar, Nisha placed the mike in my hands. I didn’t want to play spoilsport, so I agreed to sing. 

It had been a good twenty-five years since I last sang, back in my school days. I certainly didn’t expect my voice to retain its youthful clarity. But as I stood there, singing in harmony with the lyrics on the screen, I felt a surge of inspiration. The singer in me had been reawakened.

After ending the day on a melodic note, Swapna and I had dinner. We then retired to the room, keenly anticipating our visit to the beach early next morning. The thought of the sun rising over the horizon, the sound of the waves crashing against the shore, and the feel of the sand between our toes filled us with excitement.