ADIEU, KARWAR

Today was the last day of our Karwar visit and our only chance to visit the Rock Garden & Warship Museum. As our bus was in the evening, we used the morning to explore these two places. 

Located on the Rabindranath Tagore Beach, the Rock Garden showcases the lives of Karnataka’s people. From Haliyal in the north to Bhatkal in the South, every tribe finds a worthwhile mention.

When you enter, a mural sculpted like a fisherman’s family celebrating a catch welcomes you. Further inside, you see sculptures of people farming, fishing, and animal rearing. They are so intricate and life-like that you feel they are talking to you, inviting you to be a part of their lives. Stone plaques with details provide a deeper understanding for the curious visitor.

The Warship Museum, located next to the Rock Garden, showcases the historic INS Chapal. Dummy guns and rocket launchers on the outside highlight the Navy’s firepower. The interiors, on the other hand, stand out for their rich detail. As you enter, mannequins dressed as the Captain, Sailors, and Doctors greet you. A TV room, a strategy room, a medical unit, and others recreate their lives, a blend of hardship, adventure, and fun. 

Once done with the sightseeing, we headed back to the resort. On the way, we bought Apples and Oranges for our trip home.

We boarded the bus back to Bangalore at 6. Reflecting on our stay, we felt grateful to have experienced a slice of Karwar’s rich history, culture, and natural beauty. With its pristine beaches and lush forests, Karwar is the perfect destination for travellers looking to unwind.

While researching before our visit, I remember stumbling upon some interesting information: Rabindranath Tagore describing Karwar as the ‘Kashmir of South India”. This description puzzled me then, but not anymore…..

DAY 4 AT KARWAR

Although we started sightseeing late in the afternoon, the day was, by far, the most enjoyable of our Karwar stay. The autorickshaw driver first took us to Bhimkol Dam, a 45-minute drive from Sterling. Bhimkol is a village in Uttara Kannada, and the dam rests on the River Kali, the district’s lifeline. 

The Bhimkol dam provides irrigation water but also doubles as a tourist spot. Nested within wooded hills, it is calm and serene. Its picturesque beauty helped us relax, and, unsurprisingly, the place is a hit with tourists wishing to unwind. 

Since Kali was not in spate, we could wade through it at a shallow point. The water was crystal clear, with no trace of plastic bottles or cigarette buds.

While conversing with a local, we learnt that Bhimkol’s residents depended on agriculture for a living. Unfortunately, floods have forced them to seek out newer avenues. Children do their schooling & college at Karwar and then migrate to Goa for employment. 

Once done with Bhimkol, we proceeded to the clean and quiet Manjali Beach. Upon arriving, Swapna changed into her costume to take a dip. I saw the glee on her face as the waves crashed against her body. Nothing came between her and the water, and she swam to her heart’s content.

DAY 3 AT KARWAR

We woke up late, feeling refreshed after the exhausting trip to Goa the previous day. We were hungry but wanted to find a cheaper option for food. Luckily, we discovered an Udupi restaurant next door and headed there for breakfast.

The dosas at the Udupi restaurant were crisp and golden brown. The cook had roasted them to achieve the perfect taste and colour without overusing oil, a testament to his skill and experience. Swapna and I relished the meal and ended it by sharing a plate of Kesari Bath.

After the meal, we returned to our room and decided to spend the morning at Tagore Beach, around five kilometres from Sterling. We had heard of the beach’s magnificent sunrise and were keen to witness it in person. Luckily, we found an autorickshaw driver.

Unfortunately, by the time we reached Tagore Beach, the blazing hot sun was out in full force, dashing our chances of a pleasant view. We ate quickly at a restaurant nearby and returned to the resort for a siesta. 

In the evening, we returned to Tagore Beach. This time, we were lucky. The quiet sunset, the sea, the clouds, and the cool breeze did wonders for our mood, uplifting our sagging spirits. We captured photographs of the setting sun in the background. We collected shells embedded within the sand, appearing whenever the water receded. 

After two hours at Tagore Beach, we returned to the resort. At the resort, we joined other tourists in watching a documentary on the US Navy. The film highlighted the massive sea, air, and stealth power of the United States, giving the audience an insider’s view of warships, aircraft carriers, destroyers, and reconnaissance submarines. 

Having spent most of the day outside, we returned to our rooms and went to bed, eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited us the next day.

Day 2 at Karwar

We wanted to start the day with a visit to the beach and, having crossed the gate, found ourselves in a wooded area with a path. Nothing, not even a signboard, indicated where the path was leading. Doubtful we were on the right track, we followed a pack of dogs. Something told us that they would lead us to the beach. Sure enough, they did. 

The water was lower, separated from the road by an embankment. At intervals along the embankment, steps led to the water below. Delighted, I changed into my swimming trunks and began my descent. Oblivious to the moss on the steps, I slipped and fell with a thud. 

Fortunately, the fall was minor. My back ached a bit, but nothing broke. Also, I wouldn’t let the accident crush my spirit, so I gathered myself and entered the water slowly, finding a foothold quickly. The sand, pebbles, and shells tickled my feet. 

I was forced to cut my time in the water short. It was getting deep and dangerous, and I didn’t want to take any chances. 

Disappointed, Swapna and I returned to the resort. Luckily, we spotted an advertisement for a boat ride in the lobby. We contacted the boat owner and booked a slot for 9. 

The ride began on time. We had five forest officers for company who were on holiday just like us.

As we made our way through the choppy waters, the boat tilted to one side, spooking us. The boat owner, who knew the sea well, asked us to relax.  

Soon, the shore turned into a distant speck, shrinking in importance in contrast to the vast expanse of water. We saw dolphins swimming close to our boat, occasionally flying out of the water to breathe. A thrilled Swapna clicked their photographs, irreverent to the splashing water. 

During our hour-long sea ride, we got friendly with the boat owner. He advised us to visit Canacona in South Goa. 

The beach had a spattering of locals, tourists (primarily foreign), and shack owners. Children made castles in the sand as their parents basked in the warm sun. 

Eager to explore, Swapna and I walked down the beach. We saw several shacks dotting the area and entered one after a while.

The shack was sparsely populated, mostly with tourists. One was reading a book, taking advantage of his quiet surroundings.

It was time for lunch. We settled on a pair of recliners and scanned the menu. The wide choice of coastal cuisine was tempting. We couldn’t hold ourselves further, so we ordered Prawns Vindaloo and Chapati. We relished every bite, licking our fingers in delight. We ended the meal with Bebinca, a Goan dessert. Served with vanilla ice cream & chocolate sauce, it won our hearts.

After lunch, we settled on the recliners, facing the sea. As the warm breeze blew against us, we slept peacefully. When we awakened, it was evening. We returned to the resort on time for dinner. 

Seeing my tanned face, the staff at the resort asked with a smile, “Kahan ghoom ke aaye, saab?”

The Island of Guypajama

Guypajama is a lush tropical paradise. A large variety of trees thrive on the length and breadth of the island. As you climb out of your boat and step onto the land, the smell of wet earth greets you. Guypajama is like any tropical region – warm by day and wet by night. 

As you walk around the island, you have leeches sucking the blood out of your feet. They are not painful and hard to discover. I spotted five of them clinging onto me once I returned to my room and removed my shoes. Some had sucked so much blood that they had grown to the size of a tennis ball. 

It is common to see snakes on the island. I spotted one the other day; it was about five metres long, had a hood and was hissing. It met the textbook definition of a cobra.

A thick canopy of trees blocks the sunlight. In some parts, thin shafts of light enter through narrow gaps in the foliage. 

Guypajama is a sensory feast. The air smells of damp earth; the sound of birds confirms again that you are in a forest, far removed from the bustling city. As the humid air engulfs you, you desire a bath.

I spotted a group of howler monkeys in the trees. Their hysterical laughter was annoying. I felt like slapping them but could not, for obvious reasons. Their howling increased when a piece of rotten fruit landed on my head. Indeed, their behaviour was far from cordial – I wished I hadn’t encountered them.

An architectural ruin is present in the centre of the island. The Incas who ruled this area centuries ago had built this fort-like structure.

As dusk approaches, you can hear the birds returning to their nests. Busy with hunting for food the whole day, they are on their way back home, looking forward to relaxing with family.

As night approaches, you hear the sound of crickets chirping. The constant buzz they produce reminds you of a lawnmower and also that it is time to call it a day.