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SEASHELLS AND CALAMARI

Palolem Beach had left a deep impression on Swapna and me, so we decided to spend the day there. Like earlier, we boarded a bus to Canacona from Karwar and, upon reaching, walked down to Palolem Beach.

Since the sun was blazing, we postponed the swimming to the evening. But we wondered how we would spend the day. We then spotted reclining chairs under an umbrella outside a shack. This gave us an idea. We could spend the morning relaxing on them, soaking in the warm sun without overexposure. We requested the shack’s owner to let us use them, and, to our delight, he agreed. But he had a condition: we had to eat lunch at his restaurant. We agreed.

Soon, it was time for lunch. As I flipped the menu, I remembered Sandeep asking me to try Calamari. Calamari is a Konkani dish made by cutting squid into rings and then breading & frying them. Eager to experiment, I ordered it. Swapna was keen on prawns and ordered a plate. 

Cooked in cheese & corn flour and served with French Fries, the Calamari was delicious. I relished every bite as it melted in my mouth like butter. Swapna, seeing me enjoy the Calamari, felt a FOMO (a marketing term that stands for Fear of Missing Out). She liked them so much that she forgot about the prawns.

At 4, the sunlight faded. We entered the sea but limited ourselves to the shallow parts. The lifeguard on duty warned us against going too deep. Yet, even that experience was fulfilling as the water kissed our skin and rejuvenated us.

We spent the final hour at Palolem Beach shopping for necklaces made of sea shells. We wanted to gift Amma something authentic from Goa, and this was the perfect opportunity. We also bought some elephant-shaped fridge magnets, also made from sea shells.

DAY 4 AT KARWAR

Although we started sightseeing late in the afternoon, the day was, by far, the most enjoyable of our Karwar stay. The autorickshaw driver first took us to Bhimkol Dam, a 45-minute drive from Sterling. Bhimkol is a village in Uttara Kannada, and the dam rests on the River Kali, the district’s lifeline. 

The Bhimkol dam provides irrigation water but also doubles as a tourist spot. Nested within wooded hills, it is calm and serene. Its picturesque beauty helped us relax, and, unsurprisingly, the place is a hit with tourists wishing to unwind. 

Since Kali was not in spate, we could wade through it at a shallow point. The water was crystal clear, with no trace of plastic bottles or cigarette buds.

While conversing with a local, we learnt that Bhimkol’s residents depended on agriculture for a living. Unfortunately, floods have forced them to seek out newer avenues. Children do their schooling & college at Karwar and then migrate to Goa for employment. 

Once done with Bhimkol, we proceeded to the clean and quiet Manjali Beach. Upon arriving, Swapna changed into her costume to take a dip. I saw the glee on her face as the waves crashed against her body. Nothing came between her and the water, and she swam to her heart’s content.

DAY 3 AT KARWAR

We woke up late, feeling refreshed after the exhausting trip to Goa the previous day. We were hungry but wanted to find a cheaper option for food. Luckily, we discovered an Udupi restaurant next door and headed there for breakfast.

The dosas at the Udupi restaurant were crisp and golden brown. The cook had roasted them to achieve the perfect taste and colour without overusing oil, a testament to his skill and experience. Swapna and I relished the meal and ended it by sharing a plate of Kesari Bath.

After the meal, we returned to our room and decided to spend the morning at Tagore Beach, around five kilometres from Sterling. We had heard of the beach’s magnificent sunrise and were keen to witness it in person. Luckily, we found an autorickshaw driver.

Unfortunately, by the time we reached Tagore Beach, the blazing hot sun was out in full force, dashing our chances of a pleasant view. We ate quickly at a restaurant nearby and returned to the resort for a siesta. 

In the evening, we returned to Tagore Beach. This time, we were lucky. The quiet sunset, the sea, the clouds, and the cool breeze did wonders for our mood, uplifting our sagging spirits. We captured photographs of the setting sun in the background. We collected shells embedded within the sand, appearing whenever the water receded. 

After two hours at Tagore Beach, we returned to the resort. At the resort, we joined other tourists in watching a documentary on the US Navy. The film highlighted the massive sea, air, and stealth power of the United States, giving the audience an insider’s view of warships, aircraft carriers, destroyers, and reconnaissance submarines. 

Having spent most of the day outside, we returned to our rooms and went to bed, eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited us the next day.

Day 2 at Karwar

We wanted to start the day with a visit to the beach and, having crossed the gate, found ourselves in a wooded area with a path. Nothing, not even a signboard, indicated where the path was leading. Doubtful we were on the right track, we followed a pack of dogs. Something told us that they would lead us to the beach. Sure enough, they did. 

The water was lower, separated from the road by an embankment. At intervals along the embankment, steps led to the water below. Delighted, I changed into my swimming trunks and began my descent. Oblivious to the moss on the steps, I slipped and fell with a thud. 

Fortunately, the fall was minor. My back ached a bit, but nothing broke. Also, I wouldn’t let the accident crush my spirit, so I gathered myself and entered the water slowly, finding a foothold quickly. The sand, pebbles, and shells tickled my feet. 

I was forced to cut my time in the water short. It was getting deep and dangerous, and I didn’t want to take any chances. 

Disappointed, Swapna and I returned to the resort. Luckily, we spotted an advertisement for a boat ride in the lobby. We contacted the boat owner and booked a slot for 9. 

The ride began on time. We had five forest officers for company who were on holiday just like us.

As we made our way through the choppy waters, the boat tilted to one side, spooking us. The boat owner, who knew the sea well, asked us to relax.  

Soon, the shore turned into a distant speck, shrinking in importance in contrast to the vast expanse of water. We saw dolphins swimming close to our boat, occasionally flying out of the water to breathe. A thrilled Swapna clicked their photographs, irreverent to the splashing water. 

During our hour-long sea ride, we got friendly with the boat owner. He advised us to visit Canacona in South Goa. 

The beach had a spattering of locals, tourists (primarily foreign), and shack owners. Children made castles in the sand as their parents basked in the warm sun. 

Eager to explore, Swapna and I walked down the beach. We saw several shacks dotting the area and entered one after a while.

The shack was sparsely populated, mostly with tourists. One was reading a book, taking advantage of his quiet surroundings.

It was time for lunch. We settled on a pair of recliners and scanned the menu. The wide choice of coastal cuisine was tempting. We couldn’t hold ourselves further, so we ordered Prawns Vindaloo and Chapati. We relished every bite, licking our fingers in delight. We ended the meal with Bebinca, a Goan dessert. Served with vanilla ice cream & chocolate sauce, it won our hearts.

After lunch, we settled on the recliners, facing the sea. As the warm breeze blew against us, we slept peacefully. When we awakened, it was evening. We returned to the resort on time for dinner. 

Seeing my tanned face, the staff at the resort asked with a smile, “Kahan ghoom ke aaye, saab?”

A Fantastic Woman – A Review

A Fantastic Woman – A Review

While it is difficult to ascertain whether, historically, transgenders enjoyed a unique place in Indian society, the common belief is that Kings used them as henchmen and were sought after by newly-wed couples for blessings. Whatever their role, it is a fact that with the entry of the British into India, life for the community took a turn for the worse. The British were uneasy with the idea of a third gender and accused the community of perpetuating crime. While newly independent India relaxed laws against transgender people, the media became guilty of stereotyping them. Mocked for their effeminate personalities, they were, and still are, portrayed as beggars and criminals.

Indeed, community stereotyping is a universal phenomenon. Although India has a long way to go before accepting transgenders for who they are, Chile is showing the way in furthering their cause. Director Sebastian Lelio’s ‘A Fantastic Woman’, a movie about a transgender female Marina (played by Daniela Vega) and her struggle against prejudice, is a step in that direction. 

Working as a waitress and club singer in Santiago, Chile’s capital, Marina is in a relationship with an older cis man, Orlando (played by Francisco Reyes). Love is in the air as the couple celebrates Marina’s birthday over a candle-light dinner. As the two embrace and dance, the audience cannot help but soak in the romance. The two seem made for each other and are heading towards a happy future. 

A tragic twist shatters Marina’s happiness when, on the night following the birthday, Orlando dies of an aneurysm. As the grieving Marina tries to come to terms with her loss, she faces the wrath of Orlando’s family. His ex-wife wants Orlando’s car back, his nasty son asks her to vacate the house, and the family forbids her from attending Orlando’s funeral. To make matters worse, the bruises on Orlando’s body make the police suspicious. Was Marina being paid by Orlando for sex work? Maybe the two had got into a fight that ultimately killed Orlando.

Despite the weight of her problems, Marina stays dignified and graceful. She battles her ghosts like a lonely but brave warrior, swimming against the tide of societal prejudice. The scene where she tries to walk straight, resisting the heavy wind blowing against her, accurately captures her courage, dignity, and stoicism in the face of adversity.

Director Sebastian Lelio portrays a never-seen-before aspect of transgender people, which is that of grace. He succeeds in demystifying the community and subverting its association with sordidness. In Marina, the audience discovers a caring, sensitive, and strong transwoman who defies stereotypes. 

I would have liked Sebastian Lelio to explore some more dimensions of Marina’s life. What were her struggles as a child growing up in Chile? While there is a brief mention of her sister and brother-in-law, the movie is silent about her parents. Unfortunately, the movie is too linear in portraying Marina’s life. A multi-dimensional portrayal of a transgender woman that goes beyond platitudes or prejudices would have been ideal. 

Despite its lack of depth, Director Sebastian Lelio’s ‘A Fantastic Woman’ has contributed immensely to the transgender community’s struggle for identity and place in society, becoming the first Chilean movie to win an Oscar. More importantly, the movie helped drive conversations on the transgender question, resulting in the fast-tracking of a gender-identity law allowing transgender individuals older than 14 years to legally change their name and gender, with no requirement for surgery or change in physical appearance. That this took place in a country as traditionally conservative as Chile is an achievement worth celebrating.

MANJUMMEL BOYS REVIEW

Based on a true story, Manjummel Boys portrays the daring rescue of Subhash, a youngster from Manjummel in Kerala, who slips into a hole in the Guna Caves near Kodaikanal. He is part of a group of friends on holiday during the Onam recess. 

As the movie unfolds, one cannot help but be drawn into the group of friends, initially judged for their childishness. Their unconventional behaviour is a testament to their unwavering loyalty towards each other, a theme that resonates and evokes a sense of camaraderie in the audience. 

Childhood and youth are unique. They are periods when the heart is pure, and everything looks possible. The lust for adventure overpowers the wisdom of caution. Manjummel Boys accurately depicts these nuances, forcing you to grow fond of the boys.

The cinematography stands out for its sharpness and accurate framing of shots. Given the precarious geography of the Guna caves, Director Chidambaram deserves applause for realistically recreating the insides of the caves.

Manjummel Boys is also a sad commentary on the police’s ineptitude and incompetence, compelling the audience to curse their lackadaisical attitude.

Manjummel Boys’ most significant achievement is its showcasing of the triumph of the human spirit against all odds. In this context, I remember a common saying, “Tough times do not last. Tough men do”.

VISIT TO BELUR, HALEBID, AND SHRAVANABELAGOLA

Last weekend, I was on a sightseeing tour of Beluru, Halebeedu, and Shravanabelagola. Located in the Hassan district of Karnataka, these towns rose to prominence during the reign of the Hoysala Emperors in the early part of the first millennium and are witness to a slice of medieval Indian history.

We began the tour with a visit to Beluru, a town famous for the Chennakesava Temple (Chenna means Handsome & Kesava is an avatar of Lord Vishnu). The temple was commissioned by the Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana as a tribute to Lord Vishnu in 1117 CE. It took one hundred years to construct and use three generations of workers.

The Chennakesava Temple combines fine architecture, exquisite sculpture, and detailed relief work. Its walls are replete with stories from the Mahabharata, Ramayana, and Puranas. Despite many attacks by Alauddin Khilji’s army, the temple has retained its splendour and is a living embodiment of resilience. 

Dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Hoysaleshwara twin temple at Halebeedu was also built by King Vishnuvardhana and houses the Hoysaleswara and Santaleswara Shiva Lingas. Like its counterpart in Beluru, it is notable for sculptures, intricate reliefs, detailed friezes, iconography, and inscriptions in North Indian and South Indian scripts.

What the two temples have in exquisiteness, the 58-foot Gomateshwara statue in Shravanabelagola makes up for in size. Dedicated to Baahubali, the son of a Jain Thirthankara, the structure is the world’s largest monolithic statue and one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in Jainism.

Thankfully, the weather in Hassan was pleasant. The day we landed, the clouds were on the verge of a cloudburst. Luckily, it did not rain, and as a result, the weather was perfect – neither too warm nor cold. This allowed me to soak in the beauty of Belur, Halebeedu, & Shravanabelagola and appreciate the nuances of their rich history.

Breakfast at Malleswaram

My Sunday began with breakfast at Malleswaram’s Krishna Bhavan. Along with friends at Godrej Woodsman Estate, I was in the mood for authentic Kannada food, and Malleswaram, with its vast number of South Indian restaurants, was the ideal choice.  

We had planned to dine at CTR (Central Tiffin Room), but the long queue of customers discouraged us. After deliberation, we zoned in on Krishna Bhavan; it was close and made equally good food.

Krishna Bhavan is one of Bangalore’s oldest restaurants, famous for Dosas roasted in ghee and served with a dash of butter.  

We ordered a plate each to experience Krishna Bhavan’s culinary magic. Once the dosas arrived, accompanied by chutney and sambar, we wasted no time and got into the act of eating. We relished every morsel, and every bite reinforced Krishna Bhavan’s reputation.

After the first dosa, our minds told us it was time to stop, but our hearts felt otherwise. Deciding to listen to our hearts, we shared a plate of Vada, ‘Green Idly’, and Kesari Baath. 

‘Green Idly’ also happens to be a Krishna Bhavan speciality. It consists of small, fried idlis soaked in green leafy vegetable sauce. Quite unlike the soft idlis that South India is famous for, the frying renders it crisp, and the green sauce, quite strangely, reminds you of chilli chicken. 

Although every item we ordered tasted divine, the Kesari Baath stole the show. Keshri Baath is South India’s equivalent to Halwa. It combines the right amount of sweetness & richness and melts in your mouth like butter. A few amongst us decided to pack some; we were sure our families, especially the children, would enjoy it. 

After finishing a satisfying meal at Krishna Bhavan, we returned to the car. Although we had no alternative but to walk to the car, we realised that walking burnt a part of the calories that we had gained from the rich food. It also assuaged our guilt.  

I bid goodbye to my friends at the car and proceeded to my tabla class nearby. As I walked, I was eager for a repeat of the morning’s breakfast sojourn. Our group rarely spends time outside the badminton court, so a Sunday morning breakfast is an excellent opportunity to bond. After all, what is life without friends and food?

Mysore Diaries – Day 1

As I sit in my hotel room to record my first impressions of Mysore, I am unsure how to begin. Actually, these are not first impressions; my uncle, who loved traveling, visited Kodaikanal or Ooty with us and passed through Mysore often. As a result, I am familiar with tourist spots like the Brindavan Gardens, Krishnaraj Sagar Dam, and the Mysore Palace.

This time, I am with my mother for a conference on food security. She is going to speak on food fortification and its impact on livelihoods. Since the topic does not interest me, I plan to explore Mysore as she goes about lecturing.

But my travel will begin tomorrow, so I cannot say much about the places I am yet to explore. Yet, my ordeal with reaching the Bangalore railway station en route to Mysore this morning is worth mentioning. 

The Shatabdi Express to Mysore was due to leave Bangalore at 10.50 AM. Although my mother and I got ready in time by 9, finding an Uber wasted precious time. It took the app on my phone half an hour to allow a taxi and fifteen more minutes for the driver to pick us up. So we ended up leaving only at 9.45. The heavy traffic (something Bangalore is famous for) forced us to take an alternate route. This, coupled with the fact that the platform from which the train was to leave was unknown to us, made matters worse. And if you thought that was the end of our woes, you are mistaken. Majestic Railway Station, the point at which we were boarding the train, was jam-packed ahead of Prime Minister Modi’s scheduled visit. The BBMP, in a last-minute beautification frenzy, had blocked the entrance to the railway station. This forced passengers like us to disembark much before the station and walk for two hundred meters with luggage in our hands. My mother, aghast at the situation, argued with the taxi driver and local police.

I tried to keep my cool. At least I gave the impression that I was. So, upon reaching the platform, we got on to the nearest coach. We had no choice as the train was to leave any minute. Besides, the internal connection of all compartments made us feel confident. We had to cross seven coaches before we could arrive at ours. This took a while, but when we made it, both mother and son heaved a sigh of relief. 

A Love For Mathematics

I love the cold and ruthless logic of mathematics. Although according to conventional standards I discovered my love for maths late, I have no regrets. There is no right or wrong time to discover one’s passion for a subject.

Till class twelve, mathematics for me was a part of the syllabus. I could not appreciate its finer nuances because I had to devote time to my non-maths coursework. After graduating from school, I began a BSc in mathematics, physics and chemistry. This is the time I reflected on the subtle concepts of maths and science. 

I was diffident about doing maths as I felt my mother had pushed me into it. While she believed that a base in maths and science would serve me well later, I didn’t think so. I believed that one ought to follow one’s passion, which, for me at that time, was not mathematics. I even accused her of parental pressure. The tough combination I had chosen made matters worse. But my mother put up with my rants and urged me to keep trying. 

After a lot of protests, I put my mind to the three subjects. But despite my efforts, I couldn’t clear them all. I had three papers left – Chemistry, Maths 2 and Maths 3. I took a year off to try and complete these three subjects. And that’s when the real fun began.

In that year, I took a deep dive into mathematics by devoting close to seven hours a day to studying the subject. I practised problems at an intensive level to become thorough with the subject.

Regular practice trained me in logical thinking and face problems with a step-by-step approach. I also saw my confidence improve. 

During this time, I also understood why some people describe maths as truth. It is because Mathematics teaches you integrity and trains you to accept things based on facts and evidence. It forces you to question the status quo and take the analytical route to solve problems.

After seven months of rigorous practice, I gave my exams and sailed through all my subjects. I had gotten so fond of maths that I wanted to study it further. But since my marks were poor, I settled for journalism. But I was, and remain, glad that I got a flavour of mathematics in college. And I have my mother to thank for that!

Now, seventeen years down the line, I continue to follow the latest breakthroughs in science and technology. I have also used the pandemic-induced lockdown to refresh my understanding of Calculus, one of the key branches of mathematics. And when my nieces and nephews seek my help with maths problems, my happiness knows no bounds!